Finding Peace in the Desert

For those looking for a quite respite within the vast outback of the Negev desert, hiking amongst the eroded canyons set between the mountain tops, scaling the ridges of the desert hills and discovering abundant waterfalls amongst the dry pink and yellow tones of the desert, nothing beats the Sde Boker region. Located approximately 45 minutes south of Beersheva, Sde Boker is the perfect starting point for any number of hikes. The kibbutz itself was the home of Israel's first Prime Minister, David Ben Gurion. A modest field school complete with rooms for six people offers lodging and meals to groups and individuals. A small grocery is also available for essential purchases while the kibbutz dining hall provides necessary meals to those that want. But the big attraction are the numerous hikes that abound in the area. We hiked two different routes, Nahal Avdat (known as Ein Avdat) and Nahal Zin. Nahal Avdat took us by the dry and wet riverbed then up and out of the canyon via metal steps and handrails that had been carefully drilled into the bedrock walls. Nahal Zin was a bit more challenging offering a steep descent into the canyon as well as careful walking along the connecting mountain ridges. Both valleys were important trade routes in ancient times.
Ein Avodat charges a small fee to enter (approximately $5 per person) and is open daily from 8 to 4 during the winter, 8 to 5 during the summer and is managed by Israel's Park Service. Nahal Zin is freely accessed and there is no entrance fee.

Tracing history through the caves in Park Adulam

In honor of Israel's 60th birthday celebration, the KKL (Karen Kayemit L'Yisrael)( http://www.kkl.org.il/) opened a new park in the Judean Hills, approximately 10 kilometres south of Beit Shemesh, 25 minutes from Jerusalem and 35 minutes from Tel Aviv. The entire region harbors hundreds of caves, many of which can be accessed through the numerous parks found throughout the hilly countryside. The considerable development activity that has occurred over the last several years has made protecting this historical and unusual landscape a high priority.

Last weekend, we participated in one of the walking tours currently being offered by the park guides. Our two hour walk consisted of an exploration of numerous caves including underground homes and burial caves likely rom the time of the first and second centuries. Several steep stone carved staircases led deep into the dark chambers and once there our flashlights provided us with the necessary light to observe the Hellenistic-inspired columns and other architectural features. With the Romans advancing, it is believed that the Jewish residents were forced to hide inside the caves, some for years, while the war ensued. Scratchings found inside the caves show the signs of possible games that were played by the people during this period as well as areas where lit candles were displayed. Further, well carved holes in the ceilings provided not only a small light source but the ability to view activity outside with a homemade telescope of a sort.

Visiting in early fall, the landscape was covered with terepines and olive trees, though still quite brown, however, our guide insisted that the area would be in full bloom in just a couple months and was well worth a return visit.